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Winefront - 2010 Mataro 94pts, Mike Bennie

Tim Smith Wines 2010 Mataro, Barossa.

Sometimes when I am in the Barossa Valley I get asked to come and hang out on Barossa FM’s wine show on a Saturday. It broadcasts from 11am to midday, and the last time I swung through Tim Smith was a co-host. He’s a lovely bloke; unassuming and yet funny. The radio station broadcasts out of what looks to me like the old train station office, the conductor’s desk could still be in the worn waiting room, and the space is covered in bits of paper with random notices stuck to the walls. Sometimes they even let you choose a song when you go into the studio, and I like that you can drink wine while the show goes to air; I once got busted at a radio station I was working at in my previous, previous career because I had tequila shots in the studio during a broadcast.

Moving on, I really like the way Tim Smith handles his mataro – verity of fruit, a savoury edge – he’s had a great run of wines focussing on the grape, and he talks with enthusiasm about the variety in the context of the Barossa and particularly the old vines found in the region. This sees some time in older French oak.

Deeply flavoured, robust yet not overwhelming with layers of glassy tannin, savoury spice, red fruits and earthiness. There is a quiet, brooding intensity at play but as a youthful expression as the sweetness of mataro fruit comes to play. Feels slick with concentration and finishes with glossy primary fruit. Great aromas too - licorice, dark berry fruits, mince pie spice. Complex, serious and yet eminently drinkable now, but I would consider watching the wine mellow and bring out secondary complexity with age for its betterment.

Rated : 94+ Points
Tasted : FEB12/APR12
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $36
Closure : Diam
Drink : 2012 - 2022